The way to cook: A chef-guided tour of the market

It is all about cooking with what is fresh and local in one of the newest classes at Edmonds local demonstration kitchen and cooking class business, Table for 12.

A couple of weeks ago, I participated in an Edmonds Summer Market stroll-and-lunch class with executive chef Loren Larsen, a Pacific Northwesterner who is very happy to be back home.

The students gathered at the cooking studio, and then we all headed out with the chef – carrying a very large basket on his back – in search of inspiration.

(Reviewer’s note: I paid full price for this class and participated like any other student.)

Larsen created this class to demonstrate how each season, and even phases within a season, “have their crescendo,” and when you can visit a local farmers market, you can “watch for when your favorite produce will get to its best point.”

And so began our market and cooking journey, with each stop inspiring a dish.

Entering the market from the top of Bell Street, our first stop was Cottage Bakery, and as always, the choices are endlessly delicious. Larsen selected two of their fresh focaccia loaves for what turned out to be the most delicious BLT sandwich I have ever had, with maple candied bacon and fresh tomatoes and lettuce, and just a slight slather of mayo.

Well, and then there was the brioche that called out to be made into french toast. We have all made french toast, yes, but have you made it with a sauce royale? Instead of milk and cinnamon, go all in with your egg mixture – cream, nutmeg, cinnamon, salt, orange and lemon zest, and just a hint of sugar.

When topped with the fresh strawberries, we simply sliced and softened in lemon juice and added a sprinkle of powdered sugar … yum!

Looking at the very busy Frog Song produce stand, we decided we had to move along and came across Skagit Gourmet Mushrooms and picked up a few mixed cartons.

After a simple destemming and separation of the mushrooms, they were tossed in avocado oil and seasoned with salt and pepper to prepare for a hot bake in the oven (450 degrees) to create the most delicious mushroom chips.

The tossing of the mushrooms in avocado oil initiated an interesting discussion about oils and which are the best to cook with. I agree with Larsen on the avocado oil unless the dish is better served by butter or a rendered fat.

Alvarez Organic Farms had a huge selection of peppers, green beans, lettuce, potatoes, and so much more, not to mention some amazing homemade pickles. But those were not part of the class. Our shakshuka, a traditional breakfast/brunch dish with sauteed onions and peppers, tomatoes, and topped with eggs, was slow-cooked to perfection, with cumin, paprika, cayenne, and garlic providing an incredible depth of flavor.

Oh, and brunch is never complete without potatoes, and our potato wedges came out even crispier than I thought possible by simply adding half a teaspoon of baking soda to the boiling water – before roasting the potatoes, toss in oil and seasonings.

The salad rounded out the meal perfectly, with fresh spinach, oranges, radishes (soaked in vinegar), gruyere cheese, the frenched green beans, and topped with the mushroom crackers, balsamic, and a drizzle of oil. Larsen suggests you use different knife cuts and colors to create a more interesting salad.

The Edmonds Saturday Market features so many fantastic local growers and producers, and this class teaches you how to best take advantage of them for a delicious meal. There is at least one more chance to stroll and cook straight from the market on Aug. 17.

Larsen was an entertaining host and teacher for our Saturday class and shared a number of hacks and tidbits, as well as some great stories about his career so far as a chef.

If you have not yet experienced Table for 12, it is the brainchild of owners Rian and Sarah Cool, with the goal of creating an informative, fun, and collaborative cooking experience.